Winter forcing shrubs in the apartment
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What plants will please with their flowering in winter and how to prepare them
Not all shrubs that delight us with their graceful flowering are suitable for forcing. However, the list of them is quite large, and there is plenty to choose from for both a beginner and a professional.
, which delight with their flowering in early spring, the absolute majority can be distilled, but you should not start distilling too early, since during this period the plants are in a state of deep dormancy and may not tolerate excess heat, and without it we will not get the flowers themselves ...
Such plants, which in nature wake up in March-April, usuallykept in rooms
, maintaining a minimum positive temperature there. This is the only way to "force" the culture to bloom in February or March, 30-40 days earlier than the natural time.
It is much more interesting to work with plants that bloom in May. If you strictly follow all the conditions of forcing, you can get flowers on such crops.
or November, when everything outside the window is already rather gray and dull.
However, in recent years, professionals have greatly reduced interest in crops with falling leaves. Most often, they do not distill whole plants, but compositions from branches of various crops, which look very attractive in large vases. Most suitable for creating blooming bouquets in the middle of winter are crops such ascherry
,peach and apricot
... It is very easy to make such crops bloom ahead of time, and even a beginner to get a blooming bouquet for the New Year will not be difficult.
A completely different direction is the forcing of whole plants. For beginners, early wake-up enthusiasts, nurseries produce special plants that are grown in pots. Often they are smaller than their natural brothers and sisters, and it is much easier to handle them, and they take up little space. Therefore, even in an apartment, you can start forcing a real bush.
It is clear that you need to buy such plants in the fall, at this time they sleep and do not have leaves. Immediately after the purchase, the shrubs should be transplanted: choose a voluminous pot, pour nutritious, greenhouse or compost soil into it, adding sand or clay substrate to it, plant the plant and water it well. After that, the shrubs directly in the pots must be transferred to the garden and buried in the ground to the edges of the container. Such a simple technique will avoid cracking the peas in winter.
But in such a fit, alas, there are also disadvantages. So we will simply deprive ourselves of the possibility of distilling the plant in the year of purchase and transplantation, since the pots will freeze into the ground, and it will be very difficult to get them out of there. If your plans include distilling plants just before the onset of winter, then the pots with plants should be taken to some secluded place in the garden and not buried in the ground, but covered with a thick layer of dry leaves. As a result, the pots will not freeze into the ground, but, most likely, will freeze to each other. But they can be removed and separated in a warmer room.
By the way, when choosing a shrub, try to get one with a lot of flower buds, they are usually thicker. This will give you the opportunity to expel the plants this year. However, in this case, they should not be transplanted, they should be well-rooted. If you transplanted a purchased seedling, then it is better not to risk its health and postpone forcing until next year.
A few words are neededsay about pruning
, since many questions are asked about this. I want to note that most often those plants that are intended for forcing do not need pruning or pruning. However, the bushes need to be carefully examined and weak shoots removed, as well as those that are completely devoid of inflorescences, and those shoots that will bloom should be shortened.
It should be remembered that forcing plants should not be transferred from the street directly to a warm room. This can be detrimental to them, as it disrupts the processes of natural awakening.
Plants should get used to the warmth gradually; the onset of calendar spring should be imitated. For this, the plants are first transferred from the cold to a cool room, where the temperature is kept at zero degrees or slightly lower, and then, after two or three days, they are already moved to a warmer place with a minimum above-zero temperature.
Do not reuse a shrub that you have already kicked out the next year. It is advisable to expose it to forcing after a year or even two years later, so that the plant experiences less stress. In this case, it will live much longer.
After forcing, the bushes must be heavily pruned, forexcluding azaleas
, they are quite hardy and winter well in the ground. After the plants are pruned, they must be transferred to a cool place, but with a positive temperature. Keep them there with frequent airing, especially if there is a thaw outside. In such weather, the vents should be open all day and closed at night. Plants should be kept in such a room until the danger of night frosts disappears. Only then can the bushes be transplanted into the garden.
Do not forget that after distillation, the plants are severely depleted, they require attention and care. Care consists in additional watering, spraying shoots with warm water in the morning and evening hours, and from about mid-summer also in additional dressings about twice a decade. If you carry out all these activities, you will get shrubs with a lot of strong young shoots. By the way, their length must also be monitored. All weak shoots must be cut off by a couple of eyes in the fall, and those that have grown too large by 7-8 eyes.
For the next summer, it is necessary to maintain the frequency and intensity of watering and dressing, and in the fall, after 1-2 years, you can start distilling again.
Read the next part. Shrubs for distillation →
candidate of agricultural sciences,
Researcher, Berry Crops Department
GNU VNIIS them. I.V. Michurin,
member of the R&D Academy
Photo by Olga Rubtsova
Forcing bulbs in the substrate and in water
Growing plants indoors allows you to enjoy the flowers and scent of spring when it's snowing outside. The key to success is planning planting times as well as choosing quality planting material.
- selection and purchase of plants
- cooling the bulbs followed by rooting
- keeping in a bright place.
Also, you should be aware that there are two types of bulbs for indoor growing: those that you need to refrigerate and those that don't need cold.
Most tulips require 10 to 16 weeks of "cold conditions" (ie kept at 8-9 ° C). The number of weeks is indicated in the description for each variety. Always refrigerate for the recommended time and no less (otherwise, it will result in zero flowering).
Daffodils require 2-3 weeks of cooling, crocuses and muscari - 8-15 weeks, hyacinths - 12-15 weeks, irises - 13-15 weeks, snowdrops - 15 weeks. Bulbs of amaryllis and daffodil do not need cold.
You can buy the bulbs and then refrigerate them for the specified amount of time. However, keep them away from apples. The gas emitted by fruits such as apples will keep them from blooming.
Planting the bulbs in the substrate (see Growing bulbs in pots filled with soil)
Landing in water step by step.
Step 1... Now that your bulbs have been chilled for the right amount of time, remove them from the refrigerator. Prepare a tall glass vase, a handful of clear glass beads for planting material. The tall walls of the vase help support the stems of, for example, tulips and daffodils.
Step 2... Place a handful or two of beads in a vase and place the bulbs on top of them with the pointed ends facing up. Then add another handful or two extra "glass" around them.
Step 3... Pour water into the vase just under the roots of the bulbs. Do not let water touch their base.
Step 4... Place the plant vase in a light room. After a while, you will see the first shoots appear! And the roots make their way through the glass beads into the water. Be sure to monitor the water level in the container.
Landing in water step by step. Another way:
Step 1. Buy already grown potted bulbous plants or use your own. Pick the ones that haven't blossomed yet.
Step 2. Remove the plants from the pot and gently shake out any excess soil from the bulbs to avoid damaging their delicate roots.
Step 3. Rinse each sprouting bulb under cool water to wash off the soil.
Step 4. Trim the roots (up to 5 cm long) with scissors and place them in a glass vase with glass beads. Finally, follow all other directions listed above.
Lunar calendar of the florist for 2018
Florists are familiar with the wonderful sense of touch with wildlife, even in the small space of their own homes. Growing indoor plants brings great pleasure to people when their pets are healthy, full of energy and delight with their beautiful flowering. A great asset of a person who has devoted part of his life to flowers is the lunar calendar for indoor plants. To obtain excellent results in floriculture, astrologers advise using information on the favorable floriculture periods of the lunar phases of 2018:
- January. From the 26th - the period of the growing moon, which is in the fertile signs of Taurus and Cancer. These are favorable days for planting indoor flowers. It is recommended to change the land in adult crops and prepare rooting cuttings for new seedlings.
- February is the start of the growing season for many indoor flowers after a dormant period. You can review and sort seeds for future planting, prepare soil and containers for annual crops. It is worth planting flowers such as petunias, snapdragons, lobelias after March 17, according to the recommendations of the lunar calendar.
- March. From the 21st, you can safely start transplanting adult indoor flowers into looser pots and flowerpots. Minor damage to the root system while the flowers will transfer painlessly. According to the lunar calendar, this time is characterized by the dominance of "water" zodiacal signs.
- April. From 1 to 15, the moon will wane. This is a favorable period for the fight against diseases and pests. Flower stems should be pruned to retard growth. After 04/17/18, you can resume the transplant of green pets, if this procedure has not been performed earlier.
- May. The first half of the month is devoted to feeding and planting bulbous crops in open-air containers designed to decorate balconies and loggias. After the 16th, it is a good time to transplant annual flower seedlings.
- June is a suitable month for crown formation, cuttings of decorative indoor shrubs, such as hibiscus. Harvesting (pruning the tops of branches) and cuttings for planting material is best done after June 25. Continue planting pansies and forget-me-nots in the open ground.
- July. All work on the renewal of green crops has been carried out. It remains to take care of the pets and admire your work. Watering, washing and cleaning plants is best done on the zodiacal "water" days: 3-4, 12-13, 20-22.
- August. The month begins on the 18th lunar day (Aquarius). This time does not imply active action on plants. It should be limited to loosening the soil, removing dry leaves. The formation of buds of flowering crops will depend on the correct pruning of the stems. You should use the lunar calendar to choose the best period for these manipulations.
Table of favorable and unfavorable days
The lunar calendar for indoor plants provides information on favorable and unfavorable days for the work of flower growers. It helps flower lovers not to make gross mistakes in their daily plant care. The presented table was created on the basis of the schedule of seasonal biorhythms of colors, monthly phases of the moon, its annual movement along the zodiacal signs:
unfavorable days for work on the care of indoor flowers
- 1. Choosing a variety of carrots for planting
- 2. Optimal timing of harvesting
- 3. Basic requirements for root crops left for the winter
- 3.1. At what temperature to store carrots
- 4. Storing carrots in the beds without digging out
- 5.5 key secrets of storing carrots in a cellar or basement
- 5.1. Chalk processing
- 5.2. Clay processing
- 5.3. Processing with an aqueous infusion of onion husks
- 5.4. A couple of classic ways to preserve carrots in the cellar
- 6. Winter storage of carrots in the basement
- 7. Features of storing carrots at home
- 7.1. In boxes, in the coldest place of a house or apartment
- 7.2. In a refrigerator
- 7.3. Storing dried carrots
Carrots are "capricious" when stored for a long time. Over time, the root crop is able to dry out, lose its taste and useful properties, undergo diseases and, ultimately, rot. But in favorable conditions, the ideal state of carrots will remain until spring. And when kept in a cellar, after processing with clay, or in a basement, in sealed boxes, the carrot will "hold out" until a new crop appears.
If the plant does not grow in the wild, then it can be grown at home. Moreover, the plant is quite common among flower growers.
Hyacinth blooms from January to May.
For the growth of a flower, it is necessary to prepare a special soil: clay-sod, and you should also add coarse sand (3: 2).
It is recommended to grow the plant at a temperature of 10-16 degrees. As for lighting, during the flowering period, you need to provide the plant with bright light. Water the flower regularly, but make sure that the water does not stagnate.
Mineral fertilizer should be added to the soil once a month.
Before flowering, the plant is kept in a place where it is cool and there is also shade. After the start of flowering, the temperature of the flower maintenance is not very important. However, it should be remembered that in a cool room the plant will bloom longer. After the hyacinth has faded, the bulb should be placed in a cool, dark place. At the beginning of autumn, the bulbs are planted again. The flower is propagated by bulbs.
At the end of August, healthy large bulbs are selected, wrapped in cheesecloth and left in the refrigerator. In this case, the temperature should be +5 degrees. In the first months of autumn, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the bulbs in order to prevent the development of diseases.
The beginning of November
Now you can start planting the bulbs. To do this, you need to prepare pots up to 30 cm high. As for the diameter, it all depends on the number of planted bulbs.
Next, the vessel is filled with soil (10 cm layer), which is compacted. After that, the soil must be watered, the prepared plants should be laid out on its surface and sprinkled with another layer of soil (the bulbs should look out of it a little). The pot of bulbs can now be placed in the refrigerator or other cool place. In this state, the plant is left for a month.
Now you can transfer the planted flowers to a warm room (temperature 16 degrees). It is also necessary to provide them with dim light. Home hyacinth is very picky about light, so you need to monitor the flower for about 10 days.After the sprouts reach 3 cm, you can start to water them moderately. Bright lighting can now be provided.
This month, the sprouts are already strong, and the inflorescence is already peeping out a little from under them. In this case, the bud has the shade that the future flower will have. The plant will soon begin to bloom.
After the flowers have fully bloomed, you need to transfer them to a warm room. The temperature for hyacinth in this case should be about 16 degrees.
End of flowering
After the homemade hyacinth has faded, the stem can be cut off. However, you should not touch the leaves, since without them the formation of a new bulb is impossible. To keep them in proper shape, it is better to tie them up.
In this case, it is imperative to water the plant (in moderation), and also add fertilizers to the soil every few months. This should be done until the leaves begin to dry out.
You can only cut the leaves after they are completely dry. This will indicate that the bulb has formed. Take it out of the ground and put it in a cool place (not in the refrigerator).
You can plant a new bulb after a few years, as it should gain strength before forcing. After the storage period has expired, you need to plant the hyacinth in early fall.
Tree and Shrub Care in Spring
Hello dear friends!
I will list and describe in detail the main types of work on care of trees and shrubs in spring, or rather, at the end of March and April, which the gardener must perform in an orchard or park. However, most of the recommendations are suitable for any tree plantations on your site, including protective and decorative ones. These tips are especially relevant for plantings that have not been properly cared for, for example, for a garden that has been abandoned for some time.
It is necessary to continue protecting trees from rodents and still prevent branch breakage under the weight of snow in the northern regions. Here, frequent thaws in March and early April make the snow wet and very heavy, so after every noticeable snowfall, you need to shake off the snow from the tree branches as soon as possible. But the dense trampled snow around the lower part of the trunk protects the tree from hares and field mice. This protection is called trunk circles or snow blanket. It is extremely useful for trees, and absolutely necessary for berry bushes, since they cannot, like trees, be protected at the bottom with a harness. It also provides spring soil moisture for plant roots.
Continue to remove and eradicate previously unnoticed egg-laying, cocoons and nests of wintering garden pests. If you have not done this before, be sure to collect last year's foliage and carrion, mummified fruits from the branches. All this needs to be burned, and not just thrown into a compost pit. Any last year's leaf, and even worse, the fruit remaining hanging from the fall can become a convenient shelter for wintering harmful insects: hawthorns, golden-tails, sawflies. Do not leave leaves and fruits on the tree just because they are high; remove them with a long pole with a wire hook attached to it. Be sure to cut off the overwintering eggs of the ringed silkworm.
Check the expiration dates and the amount of your stocks of fertilizers, pesticides, garden varnish, microelements and buy the missing ones before the spring rise in demand and prices. Regularly check the trees that wake up from hibernation, during thaws, restore the amount of snow in the trunks and strengthen the protection from mice and hares, for example, put ratchets. After frost, inspect the bark for cracks, covering them with pitch, after a strong wind, check if the branches are broken. Inspect and do not be lazy to restore the autumn protective harness of trees from rodents.
It is too late to stratify and plant seeds of fruit and berry crops, but you need to constantly inspect the cuttings of apple, pear, cherry, currant harvested in the basement since autumn, as well as check the storage of sandy seeds, for example, pear, Chinese and forest apple. If signs of germination are found, it is necessary to transfer the seeds and cuttings from the basement to a colder place. In March, you can still graft rootstock plants with cuttings, the roots of a pear and an apple tree stored in the basement (winter grafting). You also need to sand the grafted rootstocks and place them in the basement for storage before planting in the nursery.
In areas with planted young shrubs, if the opportunity arises, carry out the last snow retention. Use bunches of brushwood, straw for this, or just throw snow banks. Prune the trees to complete the crown formation, paying close attention to the strength of the pruning. If the winter was harsh and partially damaged the branches, then pruning is better done later, in April, when the surviving buds are finally outlined. If there are few living buds left, then the pruning should be loosened and try to preserve as many fruit buds as possible.
If there is an excess of generative organs, and their growth is weakened, then it is necessary to strengthen the thinning and shortening of the branches, which will improve the foliage of the trees and the quality of the fruits. At the same time, when pruning, carefully check if there are no disinfected and not covered wounds left in the places of treatment and treatment of winter damage to trees.
Successful work on care of trees and shrubs in spring in the garden and a bountiful harvest!
December: What to do in the winter at the dacha? Seasonal work in the country
29.11.2016, 15:54 999 Views 0 Downloads
In December, gardeners often take a break from gardening. At this time, many have other concerns: preparation for the winter holidays.
In January, when the winter holidays are finally over, but the time has not yet come to actively prepare for the new season, there is time to sit comfortably with a book (or in front of the computer) and, flipping through gardening guides, thematic sites on the Internet and plant catalogs and seeds, to dream about what of all this beauty I would like to see in my own garden. The greatest achievements, as you know, begin with a dream, which is formed into a vision, which, in turn, turns into a goal.
In February, it is almost impossible to get rid of the thoughts of the approaching spring and the beginning of a new season in the garden. Fortunately, the first chores with seedlings are already beginning - a wonderful opportunity to finally do active gardening, even at home.
Basic gardening work in winter:
Check winter shelters regularly after bad weather (strong wind, rain, snow). See Winter shelters for roses, hydrangeas, chrysanthemums, and How to protect your garden from hares.
When there is no frost or precipitation, continue cleaning the garden: cut off faded perennials, collect old leaves, destroy overgrown plants, etc.
At low above zero temperatures and if the soil is not frozen - planting, transplanting, tree cuttings and air removal of deciduous shrubs and trees, including fruit trees.
Pruning stone fruit trees before new growth begins (in colder regions, this is done in spring).
Attention! Do not prune trees and shrubs at the beginning of the season that bloom in spring or early summer on last year's shoots (lilac, forsythia, some clematis, chubushnik, etc.), they should be pruned immediately after flowering.
Winter is the last time for sowing plants that need cold for successful germination (for example, lavender). If you have not sown cold-resistant annuals in the fall, you can do it now if the soil is not frozen (poppy, calendula, cornflowers, etc.)
Repair of garden furniture, construction of a fence, arches, flower beds, rockeries and other small architectural objects. Checking and replacing garden tools, cleaning gutters. If the soil is not frozen, you can start laying garden paths or arranging a decorative garden pond.
Install winter feeders and be sure to feed the birds that hibernate where you live. See How to Help the Birds in the Winter and How to Make Winter Bird Cakes.
When there is no frost or rain, removing old leaves from the lawn and adjusting the boundaries of formal lawns. When the grass is covered with frost or snow, it is freezing or it is raining, try to bypass the lawn altogether and do not step on the grass.
Planning new plantings and crop rotation of vegetables for the next season
In warmer regions, the harvest of winter crops continues: leeks, winter types of cabbage (broccoli, Brussels sprouts, green), as well as parsnips and greens (lettuce, spinach, etc.).
From time to time, check how the dug out bulbs and rhizomes of thermophilic plants (dahlia, canna, begonia, gladiolus, etc.) are stored, and how thermophilic perennials winter in a heated greenhouse or on a terrace (fuchsia, pelargonium, helenium, etc.). Towards the end of winter, shorten their trunks to stimulate new growth of side shoots and lush bush, and place them in a warmer and lighter room to speed up the growing season.
Visit a nice garden center in January, where there is a big winter sale at this time. If you do not delay the visit, you can inexpensively buy everything that you have wanted for a long time for the next season.
Tips for summer residents
At home: the winter forcing of bulbous plants continues and the forcing of branches of spring-flowering shrubs begins.
At home: Collect ash from fireplace and stove. February: sowing seeds for seedlings begins! By this time, you should already have everything you need (containers, seeds).
IN seasonal work site planning may also be included.
Draw a plot, think about where you will be, what to plant, draw, it is easier to observe the crop rotation and you can immediately see what will happen next year, how to prepare the soil for planting. Review your seed stocks. Make lists of seeds that need to be replenished. You need to check the germination of the seeds so that there is time to bribe them if they deteriorate.
When the temperature rises above 4 ° C in vegetable stores, potato moths can emerge from the eggs laid on potatoes. It penetrates the tubers and gnaws at the passages. Therefore, maintaining the temperature in the region of 3 ° C will serve the death of caterpillars and pupae.
Summer residents sow tomatoes, cucumbers for growing in greenhouses.
Calendar of work for gardeners - truck farmers on the berry in December. When snow falls, throw it under bushes.
On the berry, planting pits can be prepared for spring plantings.
Calendar of work for gardeners - gardeners in a flower garden in December
After the onset of frost, cover the planting of bulbous with grass, hay, humus, peat with other materials.
General advice for gardeners - gardeners for December
Cut branches tops, burn them, the ashes are useful for neutralizing the acidic soil. Ashes can be used in the garden, in the garden, in the flower garden. If the site has a slope, then make transverse furrows. This will prevent the washout of the fertile layer with melt water.
All tops, all leaves, and cut branches must be removed, this will prevent the development of many diseases.
Review your gardening tool.